On Friday, we discovered Kaylee's smile.

Since Monday, she's been kind of a small Asian Marlon Brando. Circa "On the Waterfront." Intense, serious, theatrical, physical. It was hard to get a smile out of her, and when you did, you had a nagging doubt she was laughing at you.

Now, she goes on these laughing binges. The babies were examined Friday at a Guangzhou hospital. (Kaylee's 16 pounds and healthy.) The doctor coaxed the biggest giggle fit. He also asked if the baby looks like me. No, I said, thank God - her mother.

Nighttime brought the Chinese Baby Beach Party. We took over the lobby of the hotel's 8th floor. Our guide, Frank, put down bed sheets. Soon it was covered with Pizza Hut pizza, Tsing Tsao beer and 11 babies. Kaylee flopped over and pinned Elizabeth Kilpatrick in a WWF move.

Kaylee ended her happiest day on a crying jag. Up too late? Nap too long? Teeth? Ears? All these mysteries. Does it ever get easier to hear your baby cry?